The Basics
The 4Cs
Cut, color, clarity and carat are the four grades used to describe a diamond. They apply to both natural and lab-grown diamonds.
Cut
How well the stone’s facets are proportioned and polished. Cut controls sparkle more than any other grade — a well-cut stone with lower color or clarity often outshines a poorly cut one. Grades run from Excellent (or Ideal) down to Poor.
Color
Graded from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). D–F are colorless, G–J near colorless. Set in yellow gold, a G–J stone looks white to most eyes; white gold and platinum show warmth more easily.
Clarity
How many tiny internal features (inclusions) or surface marks a stone has, judged under 10× magnification. Most stones from VS2 up look clean to the naked eye.
Carat
A unit of weight, not size: 1 carat = 0.2 grams. For pieces set with many stones, look for total carat weight (ctw) — the combined weight of every stone in the piece.
| Grade | Meaning | What you see |
|---|---|---|
| FL / IF | Flawless / Internally flawless | Nothing visible under 10× magnification |
| VVS1 / VVS2 | Very, very slightly included | Inclusions extremely hard to find even under 10× |
| VS1 / VS2 | Very slightly included | Minor inclusions under 10×; clean to the naked eye |
| SI1 / SI2 | Slightly included | Noticeable under 10×; SI2 may be visible up close |
| I1 – I3 | Included | Visible to the naked eye; can affect sparkle |
| Grades | Category | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| D, E, F | Colorless | Icy white; best paired with white gold or platinum |
| G, H, I, J | Near colorless | Looks white face-up; strong value, great in any metal |
| K, L, M | Faint color | Slight warmth, often flattering in yellow or rose gold |
| N – Z | Very light to light color | Visible tint; not to be confused with fancy colored diamonds |
Compare
Lab-Grown vs Natural vs Moissanite
Lab-grown and natural diamonds are the same material; the difference is origin. Moissanite is a different gemstone altogether, with its own look.
| Natural diamond | Lab-grown diamond | Moissanite | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it is | Carbon crystal formed deep in the earth over billions of years | Carbon crystal grown in a lab (HPHT or CVD) in weeks | Silicon carbide crystal, almost always lab-created |
| Is it a diamond? | Yes | Yes — chemically, physically and optically identical | No — a separate gemstone |
| Hardness (Mohs) | 10 | 10 | 9.25 |
| Refractive index | 2.42 | 2.42 | About 2.65 |
| Look | Classic white brilliance | Same as natural | More colorful "rainbow" flashes, especially in larger stones |
| Grading | GIA, IGI and other labs | IGI, GIA and other labs | Not graded on the diamond scale; maker’s certificate |
| Price | Highest | Significantly lower than natural for the same size and grade | Lowest of the three |
| Resale | Some resale value, never guaranteed | Limited resale market | Very limited resale market |
| Tell them apart | — | Needs gemological lab equipment | A moissanite tester or trained gemologist |
Many basic "diamond testers" only measure heat conductivity and will read moissanite as diamond. Testers that also check electrical conductivity can tell them apart.
Choose natural if…
Rarity and a stone with a geological story matter most to you, and the budget allows for it.
Choose lab-grown if…
You want a real diamond with a bigger look or better grades for your budget — ideal for heavily iced pieces.
Choose moissanite if…
You want maximum fire and size at the lowest price, and do not need it to be a diamond.
Certification
Grading Reports: IGI and GIA
A grading report (often called a certificate) is an independent lab’s description of a stone’s 4Cs and measurements. It is the best proof of what you are buying.
GIA
The Gemological Institute of America is a nonprofit lab that created the modern 4Cs grading system. It is the most widely recognized lab for natural diamonds and also issues reports for lab-grown diamonds.
IGI
The International Gemological Institute grades natural and lab-grown diamonds and is the lab you will see most often on lab-grown center stones.
How to use a report
- Check the report number on the lab’s own website — it should match the details you were given.
- Many certified stones have the report number laser-inscribed on the girdle (the thin outer edge), visible with magnification.
- For lab-grown stones, the report states that the diamond is laboratory-grown.
- Small accent stones (melee) in pavé and iced-out pieces are too small to certify one by one. For those, look for a stated clarity and color range plus total carat weight.
Iced Out
Iced-Out & "VVS" Explained Honestly
"VVS" has become shorthand for anything that sparkles hard. In grading, it means one specific thing: a clarity grade, VVS1 or VVS2, where inclusions are extremely hard to find even under magnification.
On a fully iced chain, pendant or watch bezel, hundreds of tiny stones — often 1 to 2 mm each — work together. At that size, cut quality, matching and setting work decide how bright the piece looks far more than whether each stone is VVS or VS. A well-cut, well-set VS piece can look better than a poorly made "VVS" one.
What "VVS" can mean in the market
- VVS diamonds — natural or lab-grown diamonds graded VVS1–VVS2. Genuine, and priced accordingly.
- VVS moissanite — moissanite with very high clarity. Bright and durable, but not diamond.
- "VVS" as a vibe — sometimes used for cubic zirconia or glass. These are simulants, not diamonds, and lose their shine much faster.
Before you buy any iced-out piece, confirm
- The stone type: natural diamond, lab-grown diamond, moissanite or simulant.
- Total carat weight (ctw) and the clarity and color range of the stones.
- The metal and karat — and whether it is solid gold, plated or vermeil (see the Metal Guide).
- How the stones are set (prong, pavé, channel, bezel) and that every stone is secured.
- What after-care is included. Ours is covered by Lifetime Care.
Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a lab-grown diamond pass a diamond tester?
Yes. Lab-grown diamonds are diamonds, so they test as diamond. Only advanced lab equipment can identify that a stone was grown rather than mined.
Does moissanite get cloudy over time?
No. Moissanite does not cloud or change color. Like any stone it collects oils and lotion, which dull the sparkle until it is cleaned — see our care guide.
Do your iced-out pieces come with a certificate?
Center stones that are certified come with their lab report. Pavé and iced-out pieces set with many small stones are described with their total carat weight and quality range, as individual melee stones are not certified one by one.
What clarity should I choose for a ring center stone?
For most people, VS2 or better is a smart choice — clean to the eye without paying for differences only visible under magnification. Cut quality should come first.