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Buying Guide

Metal Guide

The metal decides how a piece looks, how it wears and how long it lasts. Here is how gold karats, gold colors, sterling silver and plated finishes compare.

Gold Purity

10k, 14k and 18k Gold

Pure gold (24k) is too soft for everyday jewelry, so it is mixed with other metals — an alloy — for strength. The karat tells you how much of the piece is pure gold, out of 24 parts.

Gold karat comparison
KaratPure goldStampColorDurabilityBest for
10k41.7%10K or 417Paler yellowHardest, most scratch-resistantHeavy chains and everyday wear on a budget
14k58.3%14K or 585Warm yellowVery durableThe all-rounder: chains, rings, pendants
18k75%18K or 750Rich, deep yellowSofter; shows wear soonerRings and pieces worn with care
24k99.9%24K or 999Bright orange-yellowVery softBullion — rarely used for fine jewelry

In the US, an item must be at least 10 karat to be sold as gold.

Gold Colors

Yellow, White and Rose Gold

All three colors can be 10k, 14k or 18k. The color comes from the metals mixed with the gold, not from a coating — except for the bright finish on white gold.

Yellow gold

Gold alloyed with silver and copper. The classic warm tone of Cuban links and rope chains, and the easiest color to maintain.

White gold

Gold alloyed with white metals such as palladium or nickel, then plated with rhodium for an icy finish. Makes diamonds look whiter. The rhodium wears over time and can be re-plated.

Rose gold

Gold alloyed with a higher share of copper for a pink tone. Durable, flattering on most skin tones and great for mixing with other metals.

Silver

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (usually copper), stamped 925. It is a bright, affordable choice for chains, rings and bold pieces.

  • Silver naturally tarnishes (darkens) when exposed to air and moisture. A polishing cloth brings it back.
  • Many silver pieces are rhodium-plated to resist tarnish and look brighter — that plating wears with time.
  • Silver is softer than gold, so very fine silver chains need gentler handling.
  • See Jewelry Care for how to clean and store silver.

Finishes

Solid Gold vs Plated, Gold-Filled and Vermeil

Gold on the outside is not the same as gold all the way through. These terms tell you how much gold is in a piece and how long the finish will last.

Gold finishes compared
TypeWhat it isLifespan of the goldPrice
Solid goldGold alloy all the way through (10k, 14k or 18k)Permanent — can be polished and repaired$$$
Gold vermeilSterling silver base with a thicker gold layer (US standard: at least 10k gold, at least 2.5 microns thick)Years with good care$$
Gold-filledA thick layer of gold bonded to a base metal; gold makes up at least 1/20 of the total weightMany years$$
Gold-platedA very thin layer of gold over a base metal such as brassMonths to a few years, depending on wear$

Plating is not a bad thing — it makes big looks affordable. It simply needs gentler care and will eventually need re-plating. Every listing should tell you which one you are buying; if it does not, ask.

Chains

Solid vs Hollow Chains

For chains — especially Cuban links — "solid" and "hollow" describe how each link is made, not the karat.

Solid linksHollow links
WeightHeavy, substantial feelMuch lighter for the same width
DurabilityResists dents and kinksCan dent or crush if knocked or pinched
RepairsEasy to repair and polishHarder to repair once dented
PriceHigher — more gold by weightLower for the same look

Some makers also offer "semi-solid" links — a middle ground in weight and price.

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Will 10k gold tarnish?

Solid 10k gold does not rust and rarely tarnishes, but because it has more alloy than 14k or 18k it can darken slightly over many years. Regular cleaning keeps it bright.

Why is my white gold turning yellow?

The rhodium plating has worn through, showing the warmer white gold alloy beneath. Re-plating restores the bright finish — it is included in our Lifetime Care program.

Can I shower in solid gold?

Solid gold will not be damaged by water, but soaps and shampoos leave a film that dulls stones. We recommend taking jewelry off to shower and always before swimming.

Which karat is best for a heavy Cuban link?

10k and 14k are the most popular for heavy chains — they are harder and better value by weight. 18k gives the richest color but is softer.

Made your way

Pick Your Metal, Build Your Piece

Create a custom piece in the karat and gold color you want, or talk to our team about the best option for how you will wear it.

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